Requirements of Yarn Quality for Knitting Process

Md. Touhidur Rahman
Fabric Technologist
Noakhali Textile Engineering College

Quality of Yarn for Knitting Process:

The main raw material for knitting process is yarn. So its quality should be standardized. Yarn selection plays a crucial role in the knitting process, as different types of yarn offer unique textures, properties, and applications. Knitting yarns are twisted to lower twist factors than weaving yarns and the fibers are less tightly held in the yarn structure. It is generally a fact that knitting yarns have a much higher diameter than weaving yarns and knitted fabrics are usually much thicker than woven fabrics although exceptions can always be found to such generalizations. Weaving yarns are almost always more highly twisted than knitting yarns and are therefore harder and less easily compressed. Several key requirements must be met to ensure that the yarn performs well during knitting, which includes its strength, flexibility, twist degree, moisture absorption, and smoothness. The quality of yarn for knitting should be like as follows:

Table 1: Following are the different qualities of yarn that are used for knitting process:

Minimum requirement of other parameters of yarns:

The quality of yarn plays a vital role in the knitting process, as it directly affects the efficiency of production, the durability of the fabric, and the overall appearance of the finished product.

For Yarn:

1. Yarn strength 13 gm/Tex (minimum)
2. Should be waxed 0.1% – 0.3% (on the weight of the material)
3. Yarn should not be dry
4. Cone angle should be accurate
5. A tail should be kept during winding
6. Packing density must be maintained

For Spandex:

1. Should have good elasticity
2. Yarn should be uniform
3. Elastic recovery 100%
4. Elongation 500%.
5. Should be acid, alkali and temperature stable

Knitting Machine Setup in Accordance with Yarn Quality:

The proper setup of a knitting machine is very important for ensuring smooth production, minimizing defects, and achieving high-quality fabric. The machine settings must be adjusted according to the yarn quality to optimize performance and reduce breakage, uneven stitches, or tension-related issues.

Table 2: Operator sets the following parameters prior to operation

Selections of Yarns for Knitting:

Selection of yarn for any particular end product is based on the following factors:

a) Final appearance and quality

b) Users’ point of view

• Drapeability
• Wrinkle resistance
• Dimensional stability
• Porous structure
• Durability
• Soft handle
• Light weight
• Ease of care
• Felting behavior (in case of wool)

c). Fabric design and construction

d) Type of machine and gauge

e) Knitting point of view (requirements of machine)

• Uniform thickness
• Circular cross section
• Flexibility and pliability i.e., low bending and torsion resistance
• Low twist liveliness
• Smooth surface i.e., low coefficient of friction
• High elongation at break
• High abrasion resistance
• High elasticity and quick recovery
• Free from neps, slubs, knots, etc
• Moderate tensile strength
• Regularity in twist, evenness and regain
• Good resiliency

f) Wet processing behavior

As most of the knitted fabrics are subjected to wet/chemical treatments such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing, printing and some special finishes before or after manufacturing the end product, the effect of the water, chemicals used and the conditions of the wet processing process (temperature, pH, pressure, etc.) are to be considered before selection of yarn/fiber for producing a particular end product.

To optimize the above factors the ultimate yarns may be as follows:

• Composed of single type of fibers
• Composed of two or more fibers (blended yarn)
• Plied of two or more similar yarns
• Plied of two or more different yarns
• Speciality and fancy yarns including lycra
• A combination of the above
• Bi-component yarn

Conclusion:

Yarn quality is very important in knitting process for producing high quality knitted fabrics. Choosing the right yarn for knitting process depends on the intended use, climate, and personal preference. Understanding these different yarn types, textures, and best uses ensures a successful knitting project with the desired feel and functionality.

Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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