Basic Weaving Techniques for Beginners

Md. Amir Khasru
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
Department of Yarn Engineering, SARSTEC
Email: [email protected]

Introduction

Weaving is the art of craft. From the ancient history, the traditional weaving procedure defines a culture, civilization, and lifestyle of a geographical area. The most traditional weaving product is gray textiles and oldest method is creating gray textiles. Interlacement at the right angle of two warp and weft threads is known as weaving. Weaving and knitting are the main methods of producing fabrics. Instead of these two techniques, non-woven fabric production techniques become popular, where fabric is developed directly from the fibers.

Weaves, Types of Weaves and Basic Weaving Techniques for Beginners

The interlacement of warp and weft threads is called weaving. Plain weave, twill weave and satin/sateen weave are the common weave techniques.

1. Plain weave:

Plain weave some time known as tabby, linen or taffeta weaves. For its extraordinary features, like a smooth surface, long-lasting, robust, and so on, it became famous. When the warp and weft threads are interwoven at the straight angles, then the weaving is called plain weaving. Plain weaves also create a straightforward crossing design by which it becomes popular. It is frequently used in apparel, home textiles, industrial fabrics, and other materials due to its strength and durability, among other qualities. It is the most appropriate fundamental weaving technique for novices due to its ease of usage and versatility. Crepe, taffeta, organdie, and muslin are a few examples of simple weave textiles. Below are several simple weave variations.

2. Warp rib weave:

It is modified from plain weave. In weave fabrics, fewer yarns per square centimeter are visible and normally used to face warp constructions.

3. Weft rib weave:

It’s a very expensive and less common weaving technique. Weft threads are faced in this weave. Regular weft rib & irregular weft rib are two types of weft rib weave.

4. Basket, matt or hopsack weave:

The most common and simple weaving technique is basket, matt, or hopsack weave.

5. Twill weave:

A weave developed by twill line or a diagonal rib pattern. A stronger, heavier, and closely woven fabric is formed through twill. Some common twill weave designs are

• Zigzag weave
• Diamond weave
• Herringbone weave
• Diaper weave
• Denim
• Gabardine.

6. Satin weave:

Satin weave consists of four or more fill or weft threads floating on a warp yarn and four warp yarns floating on a single weft yarn.It produces low-twist, high-luster, and smooth-surface fabric. Satin, sateen, and charme use are common designs of satin weave.

There are also some more weave structures that I mention here. These are leno weaves, mock leno, honeycomb weaves, huckaback weaves, waffle weaves, crepe weaves, crepe-back satin, creped or craped, crepe de chine, and dobby fabrics. To develop a new design, basic weaving techniques for beginners are important.

Basic Weaving Techniques for Beginners & Requirements

From the ancient history of human civilization, human developed many weaving techniques to ensure their demand for fabric. In primary stage of time. Gray fabrics are producing by hand weaving. Nowadays, most of the weaving operations are done by machinery. The equipment & tools required for basic weaving techniques for beginners are mentioned below.

Requirements Tools for Basic Weaving

a) Weaving Loom:

The weaving loom is the main tool for weaving. It holds on to the warper threads and helps to give a frame in fabrics. Looms are generally made of wood and other materials.

b) Weaving Needle:

Warp & weft threads are interlaced with the help of a weaving needle. In loom setting for production, a weaving needle is compulsory.

c) Weaving Comb:

Comb helps to keep well aligned. For weaving operations to avoid thread knots, friction, and irregular arrangement A weaving comb is necessary.

d) Weaving Threads (Both warp & weft):

To produce a fabric, yarn threads are compulsory. Without threads, fabric formation is not possible.

e) Shuttle Sticks:

For send & receiving threads for interlacement, shuttle sticks are needed. Pick-up operation done by shuttle sticks.

f) Scissors:

To cut down unnecessary portions, you also need scissors. Very sharp scissors are needed to get better output.

g) Tapestry Needles:

A long-eye needle & blunt needle can take thick or multiple-stranded embroidery threads. It can be expressed as a cross-stitch needle.

Techniques for Weaving

The sequential steps for basic weaving techniques are warping the loom, tabby weaving, interlocking, and taking the weave off the loom. Rya knots, soumak, weaving with roving, and loop stitch give extra features on the fabric surface.

1. Warping the loom:

Warping the loom is the initial stage of weaving. First of all, warp threads are set with the loom in the warp direction. During warping, the loom’s must ensure the tension of warp threads. It should be high in tension.

2. Tabby weaving:

Before starting this stage, weft yarn is set with needles. The needle with threads passes the warp threads according to the design. This phenomenon should repeat back to back.

3. Rya knots:

Rya knots give special features to the fabrics. Adding fibers ends on the surface, like features on the fabric surface, extra fiber is knots with warp threads. According to the design, different fiber ends are added on the fabric surface.

4. Interlocking:

Making gorgeous patterns on the fabric surface, multiple colored weft threads are used. Interlocking is the process of adding multiple colored threads in the weft direction.

5. Soumak:

It’s a kind of feature like rya knots.

6. Weaving with roving:

To ensure more luster & extraordinary features, roving-like yarns are added instead of weft threads. Weaving with roving gives a smooth hand feel and good luster.

7. Loop stitch:

It is the process of adding extra loops in the fabric surface. Loop stitch is used very little in weaving.

8. Taking the weave off the loom:

After finishing all the operations, fabric is developed. Woven fabrics are made from threads that are cut off from the looms, and thus completely finished fabric for use is developed.

Conclusion

Fabric is the most important topic for human civilization. From birth to death, clothing is necessary to all. To ensure fundamental demands of humans for covering the body. According to choice, many weave structures and patterns developed in the weaving. There are also some common basic weaving techniques for beginners. In this article, tool requirements for basic weaving and basic weaving techniques are discussed.

Image courtesy:

1. https: //en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_weave
2. https: //cottonworks.com/
3. https: //evasweaving.wordpress.com/tag/satin-weave/
4. https: //wellfabric.com/cotton-plain-weave/
5. https: //studio-koekoek.com/what-supplies-do-you-need-for-weaving/
6. https: //handwovenmagazine.com/
7. cc-craft.co.u
8. https: //aprettyfix.com/
9. https: //www.cedardellforestfarm.com/blog/2020/7/10/diy-cardboard-weaving-loom

References:

1. Handbook on fabric manufacturing (grey fabrics: preparation, weaving to marketing) by B. Purushothama
2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_weave
3. https://textilelearner.net/types-of-fabric-weave-structure/
4. https://www.gathered.how/arts-crafts/weaving/library-of-weaving-techniques
5. https://www.vamicreations.com/weaving-tutorials/weaving-101-a-basics-tutorial-for-the-beginner

Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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