Resist Style of Printing on Reactive Dyed Cotton Using White Resist and Color Resist Style Printing

Rushikesh Digambar Patil
Department of Textiles (Textile Chemistry)
DKTE’S Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, India
Intern at Textile Learner
Email: [email protected]

Introduction:
Resist Printing refers to printing on fabric that leads to an undyed pattern within the shape of the resist applied on a dyed background. It’s a negative printing method.

In this fabric printing method, a resist is applied on the material which will keep the dye from penetrating the fabric. Once you dye the material, the dye will color only the areas not blocked by the resist.

Resist may be anything which will ‘resist’ or block the penetration of dye on the material surface.

In the resist style of printing, resisting the development of dye on the ground at the printed portion by the action of the resisting agent. It is applicable in the case of dyes applicable for two or more two separate chemical processes.

Resist Style of Printing for Cotton:
Steps for different dyes-

A. Reactive dye:
Two-step application, hence acid can be used as a resisting agent for reactive dye. Stable organic acids like Citric acid, Tartaric acid can be used as a resisting agent. Also, sodium phosphate and aluminum sulphate can be used.

Steps-

1. Exhaustion using salt
2. Fixation using alkali

B. Vat dye:

1. Insoluble (parent) vat dye Conversion into leuco vat dye (solubilized form)
2. Exhaustion
3. Leuco(solubilized) vat dye Conversion into parents vat dye (insoluble form)

C. Azoic color:

1. Naphtholation
2. Diazotization base
3. Coupling of naphthols

D. Direct dye:
Resist style of printing is not applicable for direct dye because the direct dye is only a single step of application i.e Exhaustion

Ingredients-

In printing paste: Resisting agent

In padding liquor: Reactive Dye

• Oxidizing agent
• Mild Alkali

Types of resist style printing with reactive dye:

1. White resist on reactive ground
2. Color resist on reactive ground

Explanation –

A. White resist style of printing:
In this method, the ground is dyed with reactive dye and at the design portion the penetration of dye is avoided by using a resisting agent like wax. Hence, the design or printed portion remains White and the region other than the print is dyed.

In the above printing, the ground is colored with one color and the design portion is kept white.

B. Color resist style printing on the reactive ground:
In this method, the ground is dyed with reactive dye, and the design region is dyed with other dye. The ground has different colors and printing designs have different color.

In the above printing, the ground is dyed with dark blue color, However, the design is colored with orange color.

Resisting agents selection:

1. In case of white ground effect: The resisting agent is taken in a such a way that dye on the ground will not fix i.e resisting agent have opposite conditions of fixation than fixation of Dye on ground.

2. In case of color resist effect: Dye and a resisting agent will be fixed in the same condition.

Chart for selection of dye on the ground and dye in the paste –

3. In the white resist effect, if the ground color is a reactive dye, we should choose a resisting agent that is contrary to reactive dye fixation, i.e. reactive dye fixes in alkaline settings, but we choose a resisting agent that fixes in acidic conditions.

4. Under the color resists effect, if the ground color is a reactive dye, we used a resisting agent that is fixable in acidic conditions.

Other dyes in resist paste should be fixed in the same conditions as the resisting agent for fixing during printing, i.e. dye in color resist effect and resisting agent should be fixed in acidic conditions. As a result, solubilized vat dye is chosen for printing effects that are fixed under acidic conditions.

5. Resisting agent should be opposite fixation conditions-

1. Reactive dye on ground or dyed: The resisting agent should be fixed in acidic conditions. Dye in color resist paste should be fixed in Acidic conditions.
2. Vat dye on ground or dyed: The resisting agent should be fixed in Acidic conditions. The dye used in color resist paste should be fixed in acidic conditions
3. Solubilized vat dye on ground or dyed: The resisting agent should be fixed in Alkaline conditions. The dye used in color resist paste should be fixed in alkaline condition

Methods of printing –

1. First print method: Fabric is printed initially with resist paste followed by drying and padding through reactive dye solution.
2. Overprint method: Fabric is initially padded with reactive dye solution followed by drying and printing with resist paste.

Formulation:

A. White resist effect on Reactive dyed ground-

Resist paste –

Pad liquor –

White resist effect using two methods-

1. First print method
2. Overprint method

Explanation-

1. Process: First print method

1. White resist paste is used to print the fabric at first.
2. The prints are dried at temperatures ranging from 80 to 100°C.
3. The printed cloth is padded with a reactive dye solution using a one-dip-one-nip procedure and appropriate expression.
4. The fabric is dried at 80-100°C right away.
5. Steam for 8-10 minutes at 102-105°C.
6. A series of hot and cold washes are performed on the fabric.
7. 2 GPL non-ionic soap is used for soaping.

The process sequence of the first print method –

Printing with resist paste

↓

Drying

↓

Padding with dye solution

↓

Drying

↓

Steaming for 8-10 min

↓

Washing and Soaping

2. Process: Over Print method

1. First, the fabric is padded with a reactive dye solution and appropriate expressiveness.
2. It is dried at temperatures ranging from 80 to 100°C.
3. Finally, white resist paste is used to print the padded fabric.
4. It is dried at a temperature of 80-100°C.
5. Steam for 8-10 minutes at 102-105°C.
6. A series of hot and cold washes are performed on the fabric.
7. Soaking takes 15-20 minutes at a boil with 2 GPL non-ionic soap, followed by washing and drying.

The process sequence for the overprint method-

Padding with dye solution

↓

Drying

↓

Printing with resist paste

↓

Drying

↓

Steaming for 8-10 min

↓

Washing and Soaping

B. Color resist effect on Reactive dyed ground:
The resisting agent for reactive dye is acid. The paste contains acid, hence the dye which requires acidic condition for its development should be added to the printing paste. e.g. Solubilised vat dye

Formulation –

Process: Overprint method

1. The fabric is first padded with a reactive dye solution and a suitable expression.

2. It is dried at temperatures ranging from 80 to 100°C.

3. After that, a color resists paste comprising solubilized vat dye is applied to the padded cloth.

4. It is dried at 120°C. Because an oxidizing agent is present in the printed region and a catalyst is added to the paste, solubilized vat dye gets fixed after drying at this temperature.

Conditions –

5. Then the fabric is padded through an alkaline solution containing salt for fixation of reactive dye

6. Steaming is done at 102-105°C for 20 -30 seconds.

7. Fabric is washed with a series of hot and cold washes.

8. Soaping is done with 2 GPL non-ionic soaps at a boil for 15-20 min followed by washing and drying.

The process sequence of the overprint method –

Padding with dye solution

↓

Drying

↓

Printing color resist paste

↓

Drying

↓

Padding through Alkali and Steaming for 20-30 seconds

↓

Washing and Soaping

↓

Washing and drying

Conclusion:
It will produce the bright turquoise blue shade prints which is difficult to produce by other methods. Its principal is simple as to block development of dye on ground. So, it will produce very good effects for both color resist as well as white resist.

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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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