Embroidery Tools and Techniques

Tareq Salman
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology University
Tangail, Bangladesh
Email: [email protected]

What is Embroidery?
Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Experts believe that this craft made on cloth lasts long and makes the fabric look attractive. This ancient craft holds a rich history, with the same stitches being used by embroiderers worldwide. It serves as a universal language, transcending geographical and historical boundaries.

Process of Embroidery:
Generally embroidery processes are two types-

1. Manual or Hand Embroidery: Hand embroidery, also known as manual embroidery, is the traditional art of embellishing fabric using a needle and thread, executed entirely by hand without the use of machines. It is admired for its uniqueness and craftsmanship.
2. Automatic or Machine or Digital Embroidery: Machine embroidery is a modern technique of creating decorative designs on fabric using a sewing machine or a specialized embroidery machine. Digital embroidery is no longer the domain of large manufacturing companies, stitching large quantities of fabrics for mass production. The wide availability of the automatic computerised embroidery machine, from domestic machines to a range of professional and industrial, and with all major sewing machine companies offering digital embroidery machines and software packages within their range, has resulted in increased competitiveness and more affordable prices. Machine embroidery is widely used for commercial, industrial, and personal projects due to its speed, consistency, and precision.

Tools of Embroidery (Machine embroidery):

1. Embroidery Machine
2. Computer
3. Design software
4. Laser cutting machine for applique
5. Fusing machine for applique
6. Spray
7. Both side adhesive tape
8. Needle
9. Thread
10. Lining
11. Foam
12. Special types of fabric

    

Various Types of Embroidery Materials:

Types of Automatic Machine:

1. Single Head and
2. Multi Head

Needle Size: Mostly three sizes needle are used in embroidery machine.

• DB-7 for finer/thin fabric
• DB-9 for normal fabric
• DB-11 for thick fabric

Needle per packet =10pcs

Types of thread: Polyester, metallic, multicolor, rog, sewing thread, silk, wool, cotton.
Types of Lining: Mesh, heat soluble, water soluble, 1035, 1025, K B, special, H&M.
Types of Fusing: Dot fusing, woven fabric fusing, one side fusing and both side fusing.
Types of Spray: Silicon spray, Hygiene spray, Adhesive spray.
Special types of Fabric: Fur fabric, Woven towel, Woven canvas, Taffeta (100% polyester), satin, Georgette, Samara, Chiffon
Special Accessories: Pompon, Pompon lase

Classification of Embroidery:
Embroidery is categorized by technique, era, stitch pattern or needlework appearance.

Stitches play an important role in the way embroidery might look. Embroidery is therefore classified according to the stitches used in it. Artists may make use of various stitches according to the desired outlook and the fabric being used. Main classes’ are-

1. Running Stitch: It is the most basic of all stitches and can be used on either plain or even weave fabric. The stitch is a versatile on with many uses, both in embroidery and plain sewing and it is quick and easy to work. Any type of embroidery thread can be used to work the stitch depending on the wet of the ground fabric and size of the stitch. It is used in cut work and for outlining design.

2. Whipped Running Stitch: It makes a heavier line than ordinary running stitch, producing a raised all most corded effect. This stitch is used for outlines and linear details because it follows intricate curves smoothly. Any type of embroidery thread can be used to work the stitch but to contrasting thread colors provided a more decorative effect than one color used alone.

3. Holbein Stitch: (Also known as double running stitch, line stitch, two sided line stitch, two sided stroke stitch, square stitch, Romanian stitch and Chiara stitch). This stitch is a simple stitch to work and is used on even weave fabric, where the threads can be counted to ensure perfect regularity.

4. Back Stitch: Also known as point disable and stitching. Back stitch can be worked as a delicate line stitch on both plane and even weave fabric. It is also used to make firm foundation, rows for composite stitches.

5. Whipped Back Stitch: It makes a heavier line than back stitch. This effect is created by it varies depending on the choice of whipping thread, use a heavy, shiny thread.

You can also read: Different Types of Embroidery: Features and Uses

Embroidery Procedure:

• Art work: It is the description sheet provided from merchandising section in according to the buyer demand.
• Design: It is the process of converting the pdf artwork file into JPG and then the JPG to BMP format and at last BMP to DST with the help of wilkom software.
• Finishing: It is the process of cutting the extra lining thread, applique and unnecessary accessories. To make fault free embroidery product is the main task of finishing.
• Quality: It ensures all the requirements fulfilled as the buyer demand. If they find any faults they alter or reject the EMB product.
• Delivery: To send the embroidery product to the next process in time.
• Sample: It is the installation of design into the embroidery machine and makes some sample to send the buyer to approval.

Flowchart of Embroidery Process in Apparel Industry:

Mail from merchandising dept.
↓
Develop design from pdf
↓
Converting pdf to jpg
↓
Converting jpg to BMP
↓
Diagnosise in wilcom
↓
Design development
↓
Origin point set
↓
Thread color set
↓
Stitch number counting

Embroidery flowchart is given in following image:

Steps in bed preparation

Attaching lining
↓
EMB area marking by sewing
↓
Tapping the area
↓
Cutting of the EMB area
↓
Marking positioning point
↓
Cut piece set
↓
Sampling
↓
Check and maintenance
↓
Bulk production

Flow chart of bulk production

Making bed
↓
Framing
↓
Setting origin point
↓
Set stabilizer
↓
Threading
↓
Making cut piece
↓
Checking
↓
Set fabric
↓
Operate machine

Quality Issues in Embroidery:

1. Attaching Aesthetic Tape
2. Stitch Overlap
3. Grading Mistake
4. Size Mistake
5. Color Mistake
6. Skip Stitch
7. Lap Stitch
8. Drop Stitch
9. Tension Stitch
10. Needle Hole Creating
11. Applique Slippage
12. Position Problem

Quality Requirements in Embroidery:

1. Cutting Number
2. Lot Number
3. Bundle Number
4. Body Serial Number
5. Style Number
6. Size Number

Quality Faults in Embroidery:

Quality Faults:

1. Cut Stitch
2. Skip Stitch
3. Broken Stitch
4. Open Stitch
5. Dirty Spot
6. Oil Spot
7. Pen Mark
8. Tension Loose
9. Fabric Hole

Sewing Problem:

1. Body Reject
2. Bundle Mistake
3. Size Mistake

Knitting Problem:

1. Yarn Missing
2. Crease Mark
3. Twisting
4. Print Spot
5. Puckering

Conclusion:
Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread. It often incorporates embellishments such as beads, sequins, or pearls for added texture and appeal. With the right embroidery tools, such as needles, threads, and fabric, along with a mastery of various techniques like stitching, appliqué, and beadwork, embroidery can transform ordinary materials into extraordinary works of art. I have explain classification, tools and techniques of embroidery in this article. If you have any query about this please let me know in the comment section.

You may also like:

1. Difference between Hand Embroidery and Machine Embroidery
2. Different Types of Embroidery Machines: Their Functions and Advantages
3. Different Types of Embroidery Threads with Advantages and Disadvantages
4. Aari and Zardozi Embroidery: An Overview

Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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